Lima: A City of Contrasts and Culture in Peru

My journey in South America this time started in Lima💘. I had signed up for a G Adventures tour while taking a break from work and decided to arrive a few days early to explore the city, which wasn’t included in the tour itinerary. My full G Adventures tour review is available hereand if you are looking for packing tips, I have got you covered – click here!

I wanted to go in-depth about the cities and towns we traveled through, so each destination on the tour gets its own well-earned feature on my website!

Getting There & Accommodation

Let’s get the logistics out of the way.

✈️ I flew with Iberia from London to Madrid and then onward to Lima. This is my go-to route for South America since Madrid is well-connected to the continent, offering plenty of flight options at different times and prices. If you’re flying with British Airways, another alternative is via Miami. Personally, I prefer one long-haul flight rather than two mid-length ones.

After landing in Lima, I took an Uber to Hostel Gemina in Barranco. The journey took over an hour—Google Maps might say less, but Lima’s traffic is unpredictable. 

💡Pro Tip: For accommodation, I stayed at the same hostel that G Adventures arranged for our tour group. They offer the option to book extra nights at the same place—at a discount for pre-trip stays (but not for post-trip extensions). 

Lima’s Neighborhoods

Lima is divided into 43 districts, each with its own mayor, tax system, and infrastructure. The city gets very little rainfall, so water is a scarce resource. Interestingly, the greenest districts tend to be the wealthiest since they pay higher taxes to maintain their greenery.

As a tourist, you’ll mainly spend time in Miraflores and Barranco, which are safe to explore day and night.

  • Barranco: Lima’s bohemian, artsy district, full of street art, independent galleries, and great restaurants.
  • Miraflores: An upscale, polished area with scenic oceanfront parks, high-end restaurants, and modern shopping centers.

🖌️🎨 Exploring Barranco

Barranco was my favorite area by far. It has an incredible mix of history, art, and food. Many Peruvian artists, poets, and musicians have lived here, and the streets are lined with colorful murals, colonial architecture, and trendy cafés.

If you fancy a beach swim🏖️, there’s a pathway down to the shore, though the waves are quite strong.

One of the highlights was wandering around the Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs)—legend says if you hold your breath while crossing, your wish will come true.

Nearby, you’ll find independent art galleries and workshops, including one by Jade Rivera, whose mural next to the bridge is one of Barranco’s most famous. His artwork, though surrealist, carries strong political and social messages, and his initiative supports children from rural areas by introducing them to art. 💯His gallery is just a few minutes away and definitely worth a visit.

Morning Walks in Miraflores

Since I struggled with jet lag the first few days, I found myself awake at sunrise—which turned out to be a blessing. I set out for an early morning walk and stumbled upon a cliffside promenade overlooking the Pacific Ocean, lined with palm trees and parks🌴🌞.

It was heaven—mild weather, ocean views, and elegant houses perched on the cliffs. That morning, I caught myself looking up long-term Airbnbs in Lima😬! There’s a growing expat community here, and I can absolutely see why.

I followed the coastline, walking all the way to Larcomar, an open-air shopping centre built into the cliffs. A local recommended Tati, a restaurant by a renowned Peruvian chef – I have not been there but let me know your thoughts if you have!

I was already so in love with Lima that I immediately booked several guided tours to make the most of my time.

A Bit of History – Who Doesn’t Love Fun Facts?

🕵🏻‍♀️One of the best ways to understand a country is through its people, and Peruvians love to talk politics. Throughout my trip, I learned about the deep political and economic divide between the coastal cities and the Andean highlands, which has shaped Peru’s history for decades.

I booked a historical walking tour via Viator that covered Lima’s UNESCO-listed old town. 📚Some of the key takeaways:

  • Peru’s fight for independence was led not by a local but by an Argentinian, José de San Martín, who also helped liberate Chile and Argentina.
  • The Catacombs beneath the Basilica of San Francisco were a highlight—thousands of bones are still stacked there (yes, you can see them🙈!), remnants of a time when churches sold burial spots, only to later discard the bodies to make room for new ones.
  • Lima is earthquake-prone, so many colonial buildings have been repeatedly damaged. The historic district is now UNESCO-protected, and even McDonald’s and Starbucks have to use neutral, non-branded signage.

‼️ There’s also a clear distinction between those with Spanish ancestry and indigenous heritage, which still plays a role in wealth distribution and social status today.

Paragliding & Sunsets

Lima has a mild climate year-round, which means sunsets are consistently spectacular.

One day, I spontaneously went paragliding 🪂—I didn’t even book in advance! If you’re in Miraflores, just head to Costa Verde by the ocean, where multiple operators take off daily (weather permitting). I met another traveler that day, and after our flight, we relaxed in a nearby park, watching the sunset🌅. It felt like a sign that this trip would be life-changing—spoiler: it was❤️‍🔥.

Pachacamac Ruins – Worth It?

On my last free day, I booked a tour to Pachacamac (meaning Earth-Maker) 🌿, an archaeological site one hour outside Lima.

Would I call it a must-do? Not necessarily—especially if you’re heading to Machu Picchu or other Incan sites later. But I love seeing as many historical sites as possible, so I went anyway.

It was eye-opening for two reasons:

  • 🧐 Driving through the shantytowns en route was a stark contrast to Miraflores and Barranco—a reality check on Lima’s economic inequality.
  • 💡 I had always associated Peru with the Incas, but many civilisations existed before them, and locals take pride in that heritage.

Pachacamac was a pre-Incan deity, and multiple pyramid temples were built in his honour. When the Incas arrived, they superimposed their own beliefs, adding the Temple of the Sun at a higher elevation—a power move of conquerors. They also built the Mamacones Enclosure, where elite Incan women were kept until they were sacrificed—in 83 years, 19 women were chosen.

Food – You Will NEVER Go Hungry in Lima

Lima is a gastronomic capital 😋, and there’s no way to try everything in one trip. But here are my top picks:

  • Isolina (Barranco) – Must-visit for traditional Peruvian comfort food. Portions are huge, the vibe is cozy, and the service is fantastic. I loved it so much that I went twice.
  • Cevicheria Miramar (Jesús María) – A local, family-friendly spot where I had the best octopus ceviche and a green beer.
  • Chung Yion (Barranco) – A great place to try Chifa—Peruvian-Chinese fusion cuisine influenced by 19th-century Chinese immigrants. I had fried rice with shrimp, pork, and chicken—simple but delicious.

Final Thoughts

Lima isn’t just a stopover—it’s a destination in itself. Beyond the tourist sights, the best way to experience the city is to live it:

✅ Stroll through Barranco’s streets

✅ Watch sunsets in Miraflores

✅ Indulge in local food

✅ Learn about Peru’s layered history

I loved every second of it—and I have a feeling you will too.

Greetings! You have made it to the end of this post so thank you!

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